Mists of Pandaria Leveling Guide Review: Valentino

Location: 3115 Pico Blvd Santa Monica, CA 90405. (310) 829-4313

Date: Febuary 20, 2013

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Fabulous!

And so we arrive at Part 2 of the epic three night 2005 White Burgundy Dinner series (Part 1 can be found here). This series of dinners, hosted by Burg-meister Don Cornwell, explores in great detail the best wines of a particular vintage, in this case 2005.

Tonight features the hyphenated Montrachet wines of Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet, Criots Batard-Montrachet, Batard-Montrachet, and Chevalier-Montrachet .

This particular dinner is at Valentino, which has been a mainstay of the LA fine dining scene for decades. I first started coming here in about 1995 and it was a mind blowing change from the usual trattoria and red-sauce style Italians. Valentino is much closer to Michelin 2 star restaurant in Italy, although not as modernist as some of those are in recent years. If food in Italy turns you on, check out my Eating Italy segment.

Our private room. Notice the large table with a lot of space. This is important when you have nearly 30 glasses a person!

Notice the awesome array of glasses in the background. Only about half the bottles had arrived at the time of this photograph. Only a few restaurants can handle this sort of thing, as they need about 400 stems of the same type and a dedicated Sommelier with sufficient experience and skill. Ours tonight was Julian Zaragoza, wine director, who has been at Valentino for around twenty years! He handled the whole wine service himself with extreme professionalism and personality.

Tonight’s special menu.

A magnum of 1985 Alain Robert Les Mesnil Reserve! “This is a quintessentially elegant, 100% Chardonnay, delicately-styled Champagne that is all finesse and charm. Its savory, ripe apple, white peach, wheat thin-like aromas and flavors are exceptionally delicate. Dry but fresh, this is a brilliant example of why French Champagne has no competition.”

Ron brought this and it was really drinking VERY nicely.

Fried parmesan crisps, a Valentino classic.

Panelle. A kind of chickpea crisp coated in olive oil and garlic.

Skewered grilled shrimp with olive oil and seasoning. These were fabulous and tasted a bit like a light Chinese shrimp stirfry (in a good way).

Crudo of tuna with pineapple. Absolutely delicious combo.

All of the wines tonight are Grand Crus and they come from the orange vineyards in the center of Montrachet. Like most Burgundy regions, the best vineyards are those middle high on the slope with good drainage and exotic limestone soil. There are a fairly vast array of Premier Cru vineyards as well, but all the Grand Cru’s are together in a tiny little area.

In case you’re a Burgundy noob, all these white wines are made from the Chardonnay grape.

The reviews below come from a variety of publications, but were collected by Don Cornwell (and repurposed by moi).

The tastings were in four flights, each single blind. A few of the wines were oxidized or advanced (somewhat oxidized). This is a peril of White Burgundy. Top white Burg should last for decades, but sometimes the chemistry goes a little wrong and it ages in a few years, getting a kind of amber color and a sherry-like taste.

Mikulski Meursault Genevrieres

Stephen Tanzer: not reviewed

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 31, July 1, 2008: A subtly spicy and wonderfully seductive nose features notes of citrus, pear and green fruit that precede the racy, gorgeously intense and seriously pure flavors that are textured, sweet and mouth coating on the energetic and penetrating finish. This is one of those ‘wow’ wines that really grabs your attention with its effortless grace. This bears more than a passing resemblance to the ’06 version except this is more concentrated and slightly more powerful. Either way, it’s most impressive as well. 93

This doesn’t really belong in the flight, but a wine dropped out and Don included it since the bottle we had at night 1 was terribly oxidized. This bottle was much better, but still slightly funky.

Leflaive Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Reticent but pure aromas of peach and white flowers. Juicy, intense and precise, with a tight core of stone fruit and floral flavors and terrific stony cut for this cuvee In a distinctly delicate style for the year; impressively intense but not at all aggressive. This extremely suave wine will need extended cellaring. 94

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 31, July 1, 2008: (from 45+ year old vines which are the oldest vines of the domaine) Aromatically this is quite similar to the Pucelles with its lovely blend of honeysuckle and exotic fruit hints save for a bit more depth that is found here followed by rich, pure, energetic and almost painfully intense flavors that explode on the wonderfully long and punchy finish that is pure class. Along with the superb 2004, this is the best example of Leflaive BBM since 1985. 94

Pernot Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Good pale color. Subdued but pure aromas of spring flowers, vanilla and white truffle. Brisk, penetrating and quite dry, with its mineral component currently dominating its underlying peachy fruit. A distinctly low-fat style of wine, closed today but built for aging. Finishes very long, with lovely orange blossom lift. I would not be at all surprised if this merited a higher score five or six years down the road. 92(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: A background hint of toast that is already beginning to integrate and will be close to invisible shortly frames a similar nose of honeysuckle and fresh, cool and classy aromas of borderline exotic fruit and orange blossom that marries into the rich, full and sweet flavors supported by wonderful depth of material and an explosive, exceptionally long finish. Terrific. 94

Probably my favorite wine of the flight.

Ramonet Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Very pale yellow. Sexy aromas of crushed stone, ginger and iodine. Densely packed and spicy, with terrific energy and grip. This started out almost painful but gained in breadth and pliancy with air, with a spicy note emerging. In fact, this became downright accessible in my glass. 92

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: A fantastic nose of spice, wood toast, brioche, white flower, honeysuckle and citrus hints lead to rich, full, big and sappy flavors that really coat the mouth on the broad and palate staining finish. This is a big Bienvenues and while perhaps not as graceful as the 2000 or 2002, this is certainly stylish and deep. Like many of the wines in the range, it is also relatively forward by the usual standards of this wine yet it will certainly reward mid-term cellaring. 93

H. Boillot Criots Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, July/Aug 2006: Pure but subdued aromas of peach, apricot, honey and clove. Hints at a silky texture but this is very unforthcoming and tight today, conveying a tactile saline quality and an impression of brooding power. Distinctly dry and uncompromising. But builds impressively on the back end. 91-93

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: This is distinctly riper with a complex and quite concentrated mélange of orchard and exotic fruit aromas that precede dense and textured full-bodied flavors that are almost creamy in the mouth yet there is absolutely no sense of heaviness or lack of detail on the delicious, intense and powerful finish that is the longest of any wine to this point. 94

Hubert Lamy Criots Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer: not reviewed

Allen Meadows: not reviewed

Citrus And Wild Fennel Marinated Salmon With Osetra Caviar And Chives Sour Cream.

Most of flight 1 (one glass is out of frame).

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, July/Aug 2006:
and spices. Then wonderfully flavorful and gripping in the mouth, with a sweet orange marmalade flavor framed by lively acidity. At once superripe and precise, and fresh and very long on the aftertaste. This was picked at the beginning of the harvest, with potential alcohol of 13.8%. Boasts superb intensity and density of material. 92-95

Allen Meadows, Burghound Database, April 16, 2011: An intensely floral and still exceptionally fresh nose is nuanced with hints of spice and citrus where the latter can also be found on the textured and borderline massive flavors that display absolutely no sense of heaviness on the exceptionally rich finish that drenches and stains the palate. This is a big wine yet there is a firm acid backbone that keeps everything in ideal balance and overall, it’s an extremely impressive effort. While the abundant dry extract enables this, like many ’05s, to drink

with pleasure now, in magnum format I personally would allow for at least another 4 to 5 years of bottle age. 95

Colin-Morey Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer: not reviewed

Allen Meadows: not reviewed

Leflaive Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: fruits, flowers and honey. Fatter, thicker and sweeter than the more elegant Bienvenues but less precise today. A classic round, rich, full and highly concentrated 2005 with strong extract and plenty of alcohol. This big boy will need a solid decade of cellaring to burn off some of its baby fat and achieve its adult shape. 93(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound Database, tasted July 29, 2011: This really hasn’t changed all that much from my intial review in 2008 with its highly complex mélange of very fresh orchard fruit and acacia blossom aromas that introduce broad-shouldered and concentrated flavors of serious power and weight that are carrying ample levels of dry extract that really coat the palate on the explosive and hugely long finish. While there is so much extract that it could be approached now with 30 minutes plus of aeration, I would be inclined to allow it at least another two years of cellar time first. 96

My favorite of the flight.

Le Moine Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: tasted from tank; very late malolactic fermentation) Reticent steely aromas of crushed stone, clove and honey. Offers a sweet impression on entry, then an explosively spicy, tangy, honeyed character and a texture just this side of viscous. A highly concentrated, powerful wine with a tactile, dusty texture giving it an almost solid impression. Finishes virile and very long, with a note of marzipan. More soil than primary fruit showing today. Saouma noted that most of his 2005s finished with between 2.5 and 3 grams of residual sugar. “Acid levels were high in 2005, and it was necessary to wait until the acids went down before harvesting,” he explained. “Today the richness of the ’05s is hiding their very strong acidity. People talk about the greatness of the 2005 reds, but we had the same conditions for the whites.” 93-95

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: This is completely backward and revealing almost nothing aromatically except a bit of wood and the barest hints of floral aromas. The rich, full and impressively scaled flavors though are very rich and concentrated with a beguiling mouth feel that is thick and opulent but not heavy and there is actually solid detail here on the massive finish. This is frankly a tough wine to read because it is so primary but everything appears to be in place to allow this to really blossom once in bottle. 93-95

This bottle was very oxidized and tasted like butterscotch and sherry.

Pernot Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Deep, brooding aromas of peach, menthol and vanilla. Large-scaled, rich and very ripe but classically dry, with complex, soil- inflected flavors of pineapple, minerals, white flowers and wet stone. The very long finish gives a palate-staining impression of extract. Both of these 2005 grand crus are superb. 93(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound Database, tasted July 29, 2012: The relatively generous wood that this displayed just after the bottling has largely been integrated though there remains a trace of toast on the otherwise attractively fresh, complex and expressive nose where the fruit is ripe but not excessively so. There is excellent richness, size, weight and mid-palate concentration to the solidly powerful big-bodied flavors that possess plenty of mouth coating sap, all wrapped in an utterly delicious, balanced and lingering finish. This satisfying effort has just arrived on the front end of its peak drinkability though it should hold here for another decade or so. Lovely juice. 93

Ramonet Batard Montrachet

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: An exotic, indeed even tropical fruit nose is trimmed in ample wood toast that introduces rich, full, forward and sweet flavors that possess excellent depth and density yet perhaps not quite the elegance and precision that I’m used to seeing with this wine. To be sure, it could just be an early stage and that this will tighten up with time in bottle but it’s unusually accessible at present. The benefit of the doubt is offered as the track record is too good not to do so. 91

I brought this bottle. It had something unusual going on, not advanced at all, but exotic fruits and coconuts.

Sauzet Batard Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Very ripe, sweet nose combines citrus scents, marzipan and crushed stone. Suave, sweet and utterly mouthfilling, with an essence-of-orange fruit flavor complicated by a note of almond. This has compelling volume and density but the ripe acidity gives it shape and precision. More fruits than flowers today. Still a bit youthfully tight on the very long, almost painful finish. Offers great potential. I got the impression that this was Boudot’s favorite wine of the vintage. 95

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: The barest touch of bottling-induced reduction cannot hide the otherwise bright and expressive floral, peach and honeysuckle aromas set off against distinct lemon rind nuances give way to vibrant, pure and almost racy big-boned flavors that are unusually refined and blessed with buckets of dry extract on the stunningly long finish. Like the Chevalier, this is not a completely typical Bâtard but it’s a wonderfully seductive effort that should age beautifully. I feel compelled to note that fans of “power Bâtard’ may be underwhelmed but those who pine for a bit more elegance in theirs will be thrilled. 94

Pan Seared Scallops With Mushrooms And Mustard Dressing.

wines

For whatever reason, this was the weakest flight. There were several bottles that were advanced to different degrees.

Boillot Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Nose dominated by wet stone. Penetrating, precise flavor of pure crushed and liquefied stone. Wonderfully rich, tactile wine, but today its sheer vibrating minerally high notes almost mask its texture. Still, this wine comes across as suppler than the Pucelles. This should be fascinating to follow over the next decade or two. 96(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: As is usually the case though in 2005 it seems even more striking, the Chevalier has the sleekly taut muscularity of a world class gymnast contrasted against the massive bulk of a world class weight lifter in the Bâtard. The airy, pure, refined and elegant nose of white flower, anise and clove aromas introduces rich, full and solidly powerful flavors that are even more tightly focused and delineated on the texture, intense and explosive finish that is positively crystalline in its transparency. This is one of those ‘wow’ wines and highly recommended. 96

A bit advanced.

Bouchard Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Multidimensional aromas of lemon, lime, powdered stone and white flowers. Dense, silky and fat with fruit. There’s incredible depth, volume and extract to the pineapple, stone and floral flavors but a complete absence of rough edges and no sense of excess weight. The compellingly sweet finishing flavors of lime and flowers are unflagging. A big boy but still an infant-and a great wine in the making. 97(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: A superbly elegant, stylish and high- toned orange blossom and spice-suffused nose nuanced by hints of wet stone and lime merges into slightly toasty and flavors that are built on a base of firm minerality and culminate in a rich, powerful and hugely long finish. This is always a very fine Chevalier but in ’05 it’s even better than usual and worth a look. 94

Don Cornwell, tasted on July 23, 2009 as the introductory wine (in 375ml) to a tasting of 2006 grand crus: Light yellow color; white flowers and citrus aromas; bright, very minerally wine which also has a lot of glycerine for a Chevalier—this only got better with air. 95

Very advanced, and by my taste, not so enjoyable.

Philippe Colin Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Good pale yellow. Musky aromas of lemon, crushed stones, menthol and white flowers. Concentrated and pure but quite closed, with a dominant flavor of liquid stone. But this very full, thick wine boasts terrific energy and grip without coming off as hard. Mounts impressively on the back end, staining the palate with spices and powdered stone. These 2005s are all wonderfully clean. (Incidentally, Colin did not show me the 2004 Chevalier-Montrachet last year but he did open it for me on my most recent visit. It showed superb finesse and penetrating minerality and rated a solid 94.) 93(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: More obvious wood frames refined, elegant and ripe floral, green fruit and spice hints that continue onto the rich, full and delicious flavors that are really quite forward and possess less underlying tension than normal though there is plenty of finishing punch and vibrancy. This is a powerful Chevalier as there is ample dry extract and the class is obvious. In sum, this is a very fine rather than great example and one that will be ready sooner than usual. 92

Strong advanced notes of butterscotch.

Colin-Deleger Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Pure but reticent nose hints at white flowers and minerals. Suave and youthful, with a lovely light touch to its flavors of lemon, lime, spring flowers and crushed stone. This backward wine shows more acid spine than Colin’s 2005 premier crus and will merit an even higher score if it blossoms with bottle aging. 92(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: A restrained, pure and gorgeously airy and sophisticated nose of mostly white flower and acacia blossom notes merges into racy and intensely mineral medium-bodied flavors brimming with energy and punch on the textured, sweet and driving finish. This is relatively quite pretty and like the Demoiselles, perhaps a bit more accessible than usual but that’s no defect. 93

Warm (alcoholic) on the finish.

Colin-Morey Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer: not reviewed:

Allen Meadows, Burghound Database, December 3, 2011: An elegant and now maturing nose evidences white flower, spice and beautifully complex aromas that merge seamlessly into strikingly beautiful and textured medium weight plus flavors trimmed in discreet wood on the intensely mineral finish that seems to go on and on. This is a really classy effort that glides like silk across the palate yet has the intensity and focus of a fine Chevalier. While this will certainly continue to age for years to come, it is already completely approachable and thus there is no reasonable to hold back any longer. 94

Nice one of my favorites of the flight.

Deux Montilles Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, July/Aug 2006: Reticent aromas of apple, allspice and nutmeg. Sweet and lush but bright and firm in the mouth, with compelling intensity and purity of flavor. The fruit tones of apple and pear are enlivened by spices and minerals. This conveys an impression of terrific intensity and dimension without any excess weight, which is the hallmark of the best examples from this great cru. Wonderfully sweet and long on the back. My style of Burgundy. 92-95

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: A superbly elegant nose offers up the classic white flower and subtle spice notes as well as obvious mineral notes that continue onto the refined, detailed and explosive flavors that ooze class and style on the hugely long finish. This is one of those ‘wow’ wines that almost takes your breath away. Impressive in every sense and it should age beautifully as the balance and harmony here are flawless. 93-96

One of my favorites of the flight. Tasted like lime-aid!

Lobster And Shrimp Risotto. Valentino has always made a great risotto and this was no exception, particularly being one of my favorite types of risotto. It was so good we had two portions!

The table is getting crowded!

Girardin Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Highly complex aromas of apple, spices and wet stone. Opulent yet dry, with very ripe but backward flavors of wet stone, spices and earth. This is more austere than the Bienvenue despite its sheer size. Opens out impressively on the back half, showing outstanding volume. But this will need time. 93(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: (from 50+ year old vines in Chassagne) A background touch of wood influence that is more toast than spice or vanilla highlights wonderfully fresh, elegant and high-toned white flower and exotic fruit aromas and this exotic aspect continues onto the succulent, round and full-bodied flavors that culminate in a punchy, intense and driving finish that is quite dry and contrasts nicely with the sweetness of the mid-palate. This is a classic Bâtard and is robust and seriously intense if not exactly a model of finesse but this is a nit and nothing more. 93

Perhaps a little advanced.

Jadot Chevalier Montrachet Demoiselles

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Reticent but complex nose opens slowly to reveal dried fruits, fresh almond, hazelnut, clove and minerals. Suave on entry, then ripe but vibrant in the middle palate, combining brisk lemony citricity, more showy pineapple and a powerful element of pure liquid stone. Finishes wonderfully aromatic, subtle and long, with superb energy to the mineral and hazelnut flavors. Classic soil-inflected Chevalier, among the stars of the vintage and built for long life. 95(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound Database, April 10, 2010: This hasn’t budged much from my initial review in early 2007 as there is still discreet wood framing a reserved yet ultra elegant white flower and intensely mineral nose that merges seamlessly into fine, precise and vividly stony flavors that culminate in a clean, crisp and bone dry finish that displays spectacular length. This has all of the superb intensity of a young Demoiselles and is clearly built to age and as such should provide at least 9 to 10 years of upside development. One thing that has become more apparent with a few years of bottle age is how concentrated this is as the amount of dry extract present is genuinely impressive and 2005 is in my view the most powerful vintage of this wine in some time. Note that I have also added two years to the expected maturity estimate as this is evolving quite slowly. 96

Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Bright, pale yellow. Knockout nose combines citrus and stone fruits, flint, acacia flower and a leesy nuance. Extraordinarily dense and tactile on the palate, with uncanny clarity and energy to the flavors of white peach, lemon, wet stone and flint. A great stony expression, with great thrust and persistence and an almost weightless impression. The palate-saturating finishing flavor of dusty stone is almost painful. I love this style. This was bottled just ten days ago and will almost certainly shut down in the bottle for a long time. 95(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 31, July 1, 2008: The most elegant wine in the entire range (which is really saying something in this case) with an ultra pure if highly reserved nose of rose petal, anise, white peach and pear plus subtle hints of stone and smoke that dissolve seamlessly into unusually big and rich flavors that possess real size, weight and muscle, indeed this is almost Bâtard-like in its sheer volume, all wrapped in a deeply concentrated and wonderfully stony finish that is both impressively explosive and strikingly long. While it’s a much bigger and denser version, the flavors positively vibrate in the mouth and it is this sense of barely restrained energy that reminds me a lot of the 1996 at the same stage of development. An exceptionally promising Chevy that is presently like a block of stone so plenty of patience will be required. 97

Don Cornwell, from a tasting of Leflaive and Niellon on July 27, 2010: Light yellow gold color; some modest white flowers and citrus aromas; on the palate, very light sweet citrus and tropical fruit—much more diffuse than one would expect from Leflaive Chevy and one senses the “hole in the middle” some people refer to on the 2005 whites from Puligny and Batard; soft lemon-lime finish with okay acidity; for the first two and a half hours I wasn’t very impressed, but after about two and half hours of air it showed some real elegance and appeal mainly in the finish. By the end of the evening I preferred the 2005 to the 2004. (No votes) 92|94?

Niellon Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Musky nose hints at menthol, smoke and peppery spices. Fresh and mineral-driven; not particularly big or concentrated but with good richness and complexity to the flavors of pepper, minerals and white flowers. Finishes firm and classically dry. Niellon seemed to be puzzled by the wine’s peppery, spicy note, which he says he also found in the 2004 Chaumees. He has a theory that the source of this element is a new shrub that has appeared in recent years in the woods above the village. 91

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: A very deft touch of wood frames the understated and backward nose of white flower and pear aromas that lead to mineral-infused and stunningly intense and precise medium full flavors that culminate in a hugely long yet focused and explosive finish. As one would expect, this scintillates with minerality and this liquid stone quality defines the character of this wine from start to finish. In a word, harmonious. Note that patience will be required. 94

Don Cornwell, tasted on March 24, 2009 at a Rouget tasting: Medium yellow gold color; some strong oak notes dominate the nose with a little green apple underneath; on the palate, light, sweet fruit, some elegance; but no minerality at all and not much apparent acidity; seems to have no resemblance to Chevalier Montrachet. Instead seems like a decent premier cru Chassagne. Everyone had the same view of this and was hugely disappointed 91

Jean-Marc Pillot Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 2007: Complex aromas of pear, white flowers, menthol, quinine and crushed stone; this could only be Chevalier-Montrachet. Big and rich but not particularly fruity and not at all exotic; this one too is on the starting block today. Hints of white flowers and menthol in the middle palate. Finishes chewy, rich, dry and very long. 93(+?)

Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue No. 27, July 1, 2007: A very ripe and densely fruited nose that is subtly exotic is trimmed in a discreet bit of pain grillé and introduces rich, powerful and wonderfully precise flavors that, like the Caillerets, are built on a firm base of minerality and the driving intensity of the finish both coats and stains the palate with seemingly endless reserves of dry extract. This too is a very impressive effort as it delivers the most length of any wine in the range. 92-94

Ramonet Chevalier Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, July/Aug 2006: Captivating aromas of wet stone, nutmeg and ginger. Broad, lush and fine; not at all heavy but a distinctly solid and horizontal style of Chevalier. A flavor of wet stone lingers nicely on the broad back end. Impressive wine, but I never would have picked the vineyard. 90-93

Allen Meadows, Burghound Database, April 10, 2010: This continues to show somewhat oddly because while it now appears to be much more backward than it did when I originally tasted it for review in 2007, there still isn’t the elegance or refinement that I’m used to seeing chez Ramonet with this wine. Ripe and airy white flower and citrus blossom aromas offer excellent complexity if less elegance than I’m used to seeing are followed by still tight full- bodied flavors that possess impressive volume and concentration, all wrapped in a nicely long finish that displays less depth than promised by the nose. One change that is evident though is that if this is going to come together, it will take longer than I initially imagined and thus I have extended my initial drinking window by several years. 93

My favorite of the flight, very balanced.

Veal Scallopine With Lemon And Capers. A classic, but extremely well done!

My full glass collection – just mine!

Parker 99, “An extraordinary effort, Yquem’s 1990 is a rich and fabulously superb, sweet wine. This wine also possesses lots of elegance and finesse. The wine’s medium gold color is accompanied by an exceptionally sweet nose of honeyed tropical fruits, peaches, coconut, and apricots. High quality, subtle toasty oak is well-integrated. The wine is massive on the palate, with layers of intensely ripe botrytis-tinged, exceptionally sweet fruit. Surprisingly well-integrated acidity, and a seamless, full-bodied power and richness have created a wine of remarkable harmony and purity. Certainly it is one of the richest Yquems I have ever tasted, with 50-100 years of potential longevity.”

Apple Strudel With Vanilla Gelato.

This was another spectacular evening. The food was wonderful, relatively simple as it was designed to pair with the subtle whites, but executed perfectly. And again, it was interesting and a bit surprising to taste all of these wines in such proximity. 2005 also seems to be a rather peculiar vintage where a number of the vineyards aren’t expressing the utmost typical character. Chablis (dinner 1) was odd and muted, and a number of the normally showy Chevaliers were off or not as showy. The best flight tonight was the Batard flight, IMHO. Still, in the big picture, this is all relative, as there were so many spectacular Chardonnays here.

Part 1 (Chablis, Meursault, and Corton-Charlemagne) at Spago can be found here.

Next week we continue at Melisse for Montrachet proper!

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